From the owners of The Rushton next door comes this elegant seafood house. A full-frontal wall of glass lends an airy feel to the brick-heavy neighbourhood. Fraser Designs, with headquarters just down the street, has made good use of not much space, most of which it has covered in walnut: ceilings, floor, even the tables are rough-edged slabs of wood. Donut-shaped chandeliers highlight rich, octagonal inset ceiling panels. And Maritimer chef Nigel Finley knows about fresh, sustainable seafood. His shareable menu features sautéed smelts ($9) with garlicky collard greens. Divine, dry-rubbed scallops are cradled in a duck confit cassoulet ($13). Tarragon buerre blanc enlightens crispy arctic char ($16) with roasted artichokes. A delightful sea bream ($16) stuffed with blue crab is as good as the company it keeps: salsa Genovese, preserved lemon and garlic chips.
By Doug Wallace