Renovated by Bryan Chartier of Core Architects and furnished by Queen West zeitgeistmeisters Commute Home, this tapas bar is unlike a lot of design-conscious boites: it has no two-storey-high chandelier or stark white interior. Instead, the design team avoided trendiness in favour of historically aware idiosyncrasy and created a space with both integrity and interest. Upholstered leather chairs and mismatched salvaged-wood tables are the sorts of awkward imperfections that ensure the place will maintain a sense of timelessness. The wine list is well chosen, and executive chef Roger Mooking's small temptations include oxtail croquettes with pineapple and roasted pepper, pan seared scallops with gow gee (braised beef cheek in a dumpling), served with a soy emulsion and crispy shallots. For dessert, vanilla sugar doughnut holes with caramel chocolate. $$