Paramour
Let’s get this out of the way: Ossington Avenue’s Paramour is already a classic. If you are a woman wearing fur and delicate gloves or a man in a designer tie and expensive shoes, fine, but this homage is not for the club set. It’s for Donald Draper – and probably Betty, too – who would be amused, if not bewildered, to find that classic is in – again. Owners Adam Baguley and Amber Honor Elson (who are also behind Levack Block, just down the street) have crafted this date spot as though it came to them in a dream. Vintage art deco chairs soften the room, puffy banquettes take over one wall, and thick velvet curtains block off the light, all to create a dark, lustrous space that registers as under-the-radar sex appeal. The signature Pear-Amour, made with Niagara Vidal poached pear purée, vodka, and Absolut vanilla ($14), tastes like the stuff of dreams and has developed a loyal following without Donald Draper ever putting his nefarious lips to one. Drinkers and diners will do best to sample from chef Laura Malin’s menu. Among the (not entirely French) standouts, the roasted corn and jalapeno hush puppies ($10) are intensely flavoured, thanks to a good dose of chipotle mayo, while the decidedly French mushroom and almond terrine ($14) comes alive with a drizzle of truffle oil. Entrée best bets include pan-seared Lake Erie yellow perch with tomato and niçoise olive confit ($25) and grilled strip loin au jus with a buttery rapini sauté ($27). – Don Ellis
House manager Adly Gawad’s top three wines:
- Bubbly: Prosecco, Nino Franco, Italy
- Crowd favourite: Yulupa merlot, Kenwood, California
- Indulgent: Mongrana Sangiovese/Merlot/Cab sauv, Querciabella, Italy
Photos by Naomi Finlay
As featured in our Spring 2010 issue