/Get Inspired/Spaces

-CLOSED- Hudson Kitchen Adds Filipino Flare to Dundas West

By Andrew D'Cruz
Photography by Naomi Finlay


With its exposed brick walls and antique metal host stand, Hudson Kitchen seems to embody Dundas West’s laissez-faire, deliberately scruffy vibe. But the space (courtesy of the Design Agency’s Jamie Phelan) is actually a study in understatement, and a clever amalgam of three previously separate businesses – café, locavore grocery store and contemporary art gallery. In the front room, smartly dressed diners sit on simple wooden chairs, around tables illuminated by Calder-like matte black fixtures. A raised and slightly more formal space – the former grocery – features leather panelling and upholstered seats. Hidden behind a shelving unit laden with preserves is the restaurant’s small kitchen. Turning out ambitious offerings of “progressive North American” cuisine, it combines the prevailing local-and-seasonal ethos with bold flavour combinations and dramatic plating.

Chef Robbie Hojilla is a wizard with grains: a beautifully seared steelhead trout is accompanied by a small mound of buttery popped amaranth ($27), and a wild mushroom salad served on a thin cross-section of log arrives on a nutty bed of rye berries ($14). He also sneaks in a few dishes inspired by his native Philippines, including a moist chicken adobo served with quinoa that’s spiked with charred eggplant ($26). The cocktails here take inventive inspiration from the cooking – the In the Pink ($12) is easy drinking, with its strawberry-ginger infused gin, Cointreau and red wine – and judging by the night’s increasingly flushed faces and raucous voices they’re well appreciated. 800 Dundas St W 416 644 8839 Tue‐Fri 6‐11, Sat & Sun brunch 10‐3; dinner 6‐11 hudsonkitchen.com 

Originally featured in our Spring 2013 issue. 


You may also like